Glad you got it figured out...I would have had to take it to a shop...I am not skilled when it comes to mechanical/electrical and such...sweetandsour wrote: ↑23 Aug 2024, 06:25Bad battery cable(s). Not all battery cables are created equal, apparently. Sometimes 4-ga copper wire does not equal 4-ga copper wire. Apparently my Suzuki only likes very expensive Suzuki battery cable; but anyway there is now power to the motor. Today I'll change plugs, fuel filter, flush with fresh gas, and try to get it running, just in time for the end of summer.sweetandsour wrote: ↑30 Jul 2024, 18:32Confirmed good battery. Attached brand new cables. Good connections. Volts measured at the battery = volts measured at the engine starter, with the key in the "on" position. When the key is turned to start, only clicks are heard, nothing else. Also the tilt/trim will not engage, audible clicks only.sweetandsour wrote: ↑28 Jul 2024, 17:38 My outboard motor, a 2012 Suzuki DF70A, 70hp, will not start. The battery is fully charged, and measures 12.7 volts with the meter. The voltage at the engine, (pos lead on the starter, neg lead on the chassis ground), measures 12.1 volts. When the ignition is in the run position, (ie, "on", not cranking), the voltage at the engine measures just 8 volts. There's various audible clicks, and the beeper, and I hear the fuel pump priming, etc, but turning the key to start results in no other sound. The tilt and trim, which does not require the ignition to be on, does not work either. The relay clicks, but the tilt/trim motor does not engage.
All connections look good and are tight. I tried using the battery neg post as the ground, with the pos test lead on the starter, but there is still the voltage drop. I'll take the battery to be load tested tomorrow, for starters. Otherwise, I'm sort of at a loss.
Tomorrow I will play around with the switch, and wiring under the console. You guys are no help.
The Gearhead Thread
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The Gearhead Thread
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