The Gearhead Thread

Where Fellowship and Camaraderie lives: that place where the CPS membership values fun and good fellowship as the cement of the community
User avatar
coco
JimVH from the old site
JimVH from the old site
Posts: 457
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 15:54
Location: Sweet Home Alabama
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 49 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by coco »

Stick a basinet on the top of a Gravely and you have an all-terrain stroller for BabyGoat.
I am not as cool as JimVH. Nor or you. Well, unless you ARE JimVH.
User avatar
joegoat
The Magnificent Grand Poobah
The Magnificent Grand Poobah
Posts: 364
Joined: 09 Apr 2022, 21:04
Has thanked: 5 times
Been thanked: 37 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by joegoat »

sweetandsour wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 15:06
JudgeRusty wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 14:15
joegoat wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 22:30
Could you add a picture of what is coming apart?
General overview pic of mower:
20220424_144746~3.jpg
Ball joint on knife in foreground. Attachment clamp not engaged in background:
20220424_144552~2.jpg
Clamp engaged- reverse view-note T bar toward knife engages clamp.
20220424_144731~2.jpg
I can't tell exactly what I'm looking at, but perhaps the ball joint just needs replacing, and/or something is bent. I operated one of those one summer many years ago, and mower teeth kept sheering. They had to be replaced individually, and were secured with rivet-like pins, which were removed with hammer and chisel, and new teeth secured with a new rivet that was installed with a maul with steel back-up. Lots of fun in the summer sun in a hay field in Louisiana. Good times, really. Good memories.
Based on the pictures, I tend to agree. Something is just not holding as tight as it needs to.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati (When all else fails, play dead)
User avatar
JudgeRusty
Sunday School Student
Posts: 64
Joined: 10 Apr 2022, 08:38
Location: Alabama
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 10 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by JudgeRusty »

joegoat wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 20:25
sweetandsour wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 15:06
JudgeRusty wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 14:15

General overview pic of mower:
20220424_144746~3.jpg
Ball joint on knife in foreground. Attachment clamp not engaged in background:
20220424_144552~2.jpg
Clamp engaged- reverse view-note T bar toward knife engages clamp.
20220424_144731~2.jpg
I can't tell exactly what I'm looking at, but perhaps the ball joint just needs replacing, and/or something is bent. I operated one of those one summer many years ago, and mower teeth kept sheering. They had to be replaced individually, and were secured with rivet-like pins, which were removed with hammer and chisel, and new teeth secured with a new rivet that was installed with a maul with steel back-up. Lots of fun in the summer sun in a hay field in Louisiana. Good times, really. Good memories.
Based on the pictures, I tend to agree. Something is just not holding as tight as it needs to.
Next I plan to take off the clamp from the Pittman rod for inspection and cleaning.

I have considered simply placing a hose clamp around the joint.
sweetandsour
Sunday School Superintendent
Sunday School Superintendent
Posts: 507
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 03:59
Has thanked: 42 times
Been thanked: 48 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by sweetandsour »

sweetandsour wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 17:21
FredS wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 07:23 If you think the door is not unlocking, try to take the plastic lock handle off and pull the lock rod up with pliers. The lock handle doesn't screw on so you can't bugger the threads by doing this.
The lock rod works both manually and electronically, and I can see the outer lever move, by looking down inside the door with a light. I can see the rod move when the outer door handle is pulled. And I can hear the cable pull when the inside door handle is pulled. May be the actuator, but anyway I can't work on it with the door closed. Not much help on Google, none in fact. I'll give a locksmith a try this Monday I guess, if I don't find a way tmrw.
Two different locksmiths and two different tow truck guys couldn't help, and I've resisted calling on a dealership. So, I took up the seat, got it into the back seat out of the way and was able to mostly remove the door liner out of the way. While I was digging around inside the door my wife walked up. Pull the outside door handle, I told her. She did, and pulled, and the door opened. So, now I'm just going to replace everything I can WRT to the door latch. I disconnected the battery before unplugging the airbag, just because the you tube said so, and was wondering if that reset anything; but now the inside handle seems to work, but the outside handle does not, so that's it, I'm using the shotgun approach and replacing everything. It's a 2011, so new parts won't hurt.
The Indians will not bother you now, on account of ... you are touched.
User avatar
FredS
Sunday School Teacher
Sunday School Teacher
Posts: 481
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 06:05
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 81 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by FredS »

sweetandsour wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 06:24
sweetandsour wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 17:21
FredS wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 07:23 If you think the door is not unlocking, try to take the plastic lock handle off and pull the lock rod up with pliers. The lock handle doesn't screw on so you can't bugger the threads by doing this.
The lock rod works both manually and electronically, and I can see the outer lever move, by looking down inside the door with a light. I can see the rod move when the outer door handle is pulled. And I can hear the cable pull when the inside door handle is pulled. May be the actuator, but anyway I can't work on it with the door closed. Not much help on Google, none in fact. I'll give a locksmith a try this Monday I guess, if I don't find a way tmrw.
Two different locksmiths and two different tow truck guys couldn't help, and I've resisted calling on a dealership. So, I took up the seat, got it into the back seat out of the way and was able to mostly remove the door liner out of the way. While I was digging around inside the door my wife walked up. Pull the outside door handle, I told her. She did, and pulled, and the door opened. So, now I'm just going to replace everything I can WRT to the door latch. I disconnected the battery before unplugging the airbag, just because the you tube said so, and was wondering if that reset anything; but now the inside handle seems to work, but the outside handle does not, so that's it, I'm using the shotgun approach and replacing everything. It's a 2011, so new parts won't hurt.
I'd leave the door card off for a while until you're comfortable it's all working.
Did the locksmiths try to pick the lock or use a wedge to spread the door frame away from the window and reach down with a hook to pull the latch rod? I'm certain that's how the tow truck guys tackled it and I'm surprised they couldn't get in.
If we ever get to heaven boys, it ain't because we ain't done nothin' wrong. - Kris Kristofferson
User avatar
FredS
Sunday School Teacher
Sunday School Teacher
Posts: 481
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 06:05
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 81 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by FredS »

JudgeRusty wrote: 25 Apr 2022, 05:32
joegoat wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 20:25
sweetandsour wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 15:06 I can't tell exactly what I'm looking at, but perhaps the ball joint just needs replacing, and/or something is bent. I operated one of those one summer many years ago, and mower teeth kept sheering. They had to be replaced individually, and were secured with rivet-like pins, which were removed with hammer and chisel, and new teeth secured with a new rivet that was installed with a maul with steel back-up. Lots of fun in the summer sun in a hay field in Louisiana. Good times, really. Good memories.
Based on the pictures, I tend to agree. Something is just not holding as tight as it needs to.
Next I plan to take off the clamp from the Pittman rod for inspection and cleaning.

I have considered simply placing a hose clamp around the joint.
Hopefully taking off the couplings, springs and t-latch for a clean up does the trick. Are you sure the sickle bar moves freely in it's track? I think that ball and socket coupling is designed to pop apart if you try to mow trees or something. A worm clamp might hold it together but it might break the next weakest link.
If we ever get to heaven boys, it ain't because we ain't done nothin' wrong. - Kris Kristofferson
User avatar
JudgeRusty
Sunday School Student
Posts: 64
Joined: 10 Apr 2022, 08:38
Location: Alabama
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 10 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by JudgeRusty »

FredS wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 13:45
JudgeRusty wrote: 25 Apr 2022, 05:32
joegoat wrote: 24 Apr 2022, 20:25
Based on the pictures, I tend to agree. Something is just not holding as tight as it needs to.
Next I plan to take off the clamp from the Pittman rod for inspection and cleaning.

I have considered simply placing a hose clamp around the joint.
Hopefully taking off the couplings, springs and t-latch for a clean up does the trick. Are you sure the sickle bar moves freely in it's track? I think that ball and socket coupling is designed to pop apart if you try to mow trees or something. A worm clamp might hold it together but it might break the next weakest link.
I thought the same thing, that's why I am saving the clamp notion as a last resort. As mentioned, I removed the knife and used a wire brush to shine all friction pieces during the last repair attempt. I filed the rough spots off the blades and greased the knife
I pulled a string to check for true. I have ruled out some issues like the pitman arm timing as it was supposed to be in running order when last parked.
Court today, also rain, but maybe work on it tomorrow after work.
User avatar
FredS
Sunday School Teacher
Sunday School Teacher
Posts: 481
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 06:05
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 81 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by FredS »

JudgeRusty wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 14:20
FredS wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 13:45
JudgeRusty wrote: 25 Apr 2022, 05:32
Next I plan to take off the clamp from the Pittman rod for inspection and cleaning.

I have considered simply placing a hose clamp around the joint.
Hopefully taking off the couplings, springs and t-latch for a clean up does the trick. Are you sure the sickle bar moves freely in it's track? I think that ball and socket coupling is designed to pop apart if you try to mow trees or something. A worm clamp might hold it together but it might break the next weakest link.
I thought the same thing, that's why I am saving the clamp notion as a last resort. As mentioned, I removed the knife and used a wire brush to shine all friction pieces during the last repair attempt. I filed the rough spots off the blades and greased the knife
I pulled a string to check for true. I have ruled out some issues like the pitman arm timing as it was supposed to be in running order when last parked.
Court today, also rain, but maybe work on it tomorrow after work.
One wonders if it pops out when running on flat ground or only when the bar is tilted up/down (relative to the tractor and hitch) for the dam/ditch.
If we ever get to heaven boys, it ain't because we ain't done nothin' wrong. - Kris Kristofferson
sweetandsour
Sunday School Superintendent
Sunday School Superintendent
Posts: 507
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 03:59
Has thanked: 42 times
Been thanked: 48 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by sweetandsour »

FredS wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 13:42
sweetandsour wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 06:24
sweetandsour wrote: 23 Apr 2022, 17:21
The lock rod works both manually and electronically, and I can see the outer lever move, by looking down inside the door with a light. I can see the rod move when the outer door handle is pulled. And I can hear the cable pull when the inside door handle is pulled. May be the actuator, but anyway I can't work on it with the door closed. Not much help on Google, none in fact. I'll give a locksmith a try this Monday I guess, if I don't find a way tmrw.
Two different locksmiths and two different tow truck guys couldn't help, and I've resisted calling on a dealership. So, I took up the seat, got it into the back seat out of the way and was able to mostly remove the door liner out of the way. While I was digging around inside the door my wife walked up. Pull the outside door handle, I told her. She did, and pulled, and the door opened. So, now I'm just going to replace everything I can WRT to the door latch. I disconnected the battery before unplugging the airbag, just because the you tube said so, and was wondering if that reset anything; but now the inside handle seems to work, but the outside handle does not, so that's it, I'm using the shotgun approach and replacing everything. It's a 2011, so new parts won't hurt.
I'd leave the door card off for a while until you're comfortable it's all working.
Did the locksmiths try to pick the lock or use a wedge to spread the door frame away from the window and reach down with a hook to pull the latch rod? I'm certain that's how the tow truck guys tackled it and I'm surprised they couldn't get in.
Yes, wrt the tow truck guys. One locksmith said that the rods were all engaged but the latch was just stuck, and said just keep tugging on it. When I finally got inside it and was banging around is when it finally opened. Anyway it's all put back together, but the battery is dead now, so it's on charge. I'm not supposed to be driving that truck this week for some reason.
The Indians will not bother you now, on account of ... you are touched.
sweetandsour
Sunday School Superintendent
Sunday School Superintendent
Posts: 507
Joined: 08 Apr 2022, 03:59
Has thanked: 42 times
Been thanked: 48 times

The Gearhead Thread

Post by sweetandsour »

sweetandsour wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 15:57
FredS wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 13:42
sweetandsour wrote: 26 Apr 2022, 06:24
Two different locksmiths and two different tow truck guys couldn't help, and I've resisted calling on a dealership. So, I took up the seat, got it into the back seat out of the way and was able to mostly remove the door liner out of the way. While I was digging around inside the door my wife walked up. Pull the outside door handle, I told her. She did, and pulled, and the door opened. So, now I'm just going to replace everything I can WRT to the door latch. I disconnected the battery before unplugging the airbag, just because the you tube said so, and was wondering if that reset anything; but now the inside handle seems to work, but the outside handle does not, so that's it, I'm using the shotgun approach and replacing everything. It's a 2011, so new parts won't hurt.
I'd leave the door card off for a while until you're comfortable it's all working.
Did the locksmiths try to pick the lock or use a wedge to spread the door frame away from the window and reach down with a hook to pull the latch rod? I'm certain that's how the tow truck guys tackled it and I'm surprised they couldn't get in.
Yes, wrt the tow truck guys. One locksmith said that the rods were all engaged but the latch was just stuck, and said just keep tugging on it. When I finally got inside it and was banging around is when it finally opened. Anyway it's all put back together, but the battery is dead now, so it's on charge. I'm not supposed to be driving that truck this week for some reason.
BTW, the nuts and bolt heads securing the seat to the floor were reverse, or exterior, torx. I'd not seen that before, and I have to wonder why GM needed to use those for the seats, and why the front took 14mm but the back took 11mm. I don't have reverse torx sockets, but I have deep sockets that did the job. Seems like it's always something. I guess that's why I'm not a mechanic for a living.
The Indians will not bother you now, on account of ... you are touched.
Post Reply