The Gearhead Thread

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Hovannes
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The Gearhead Thread

Post by Hovannes »

A big day at the T-party!
I got all the spark plugs out and the cylinder oiled.
I've started painting the split rims
and I've got baby powder for getting the tubes and tires mounted

Tomorrow I'll give the crank a spin and see if the rings are still good.
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The Gearhead Thread

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I removed the rags I used to keep debris out of the spark plug hole and gave the T's crank a spin.
It was beautiful, man! Beautiful!
As soon as I can get tires mounted I'll connect a battery and see if she'll start.
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The Gearhead Thread

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I have lots and lots of baby powder, and  am ready to start mounting the Model T tires on the split rims as soon as the rims are good and dry so I won't scratch them up too badly. This maybe the beginning of World War III when the satellites pick up an enormous white cloud suddenly materializing over Fresno.  Oops!
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After a trip to Salt Lake City for Thanksgiving, I got the last Model T tire mounted on it's split rim today,
FINALLY! :D
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The Gearhead Thread

Post by Jocose »

Hovannes wrote: 28 Nov 2022, 16:00 After a trip to Salt Lake City for Thanksgiving, I got the last Model T tire mounted on it's split rim today,
FINALLY! :D
:text-worthless:
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The Gearhead Thread

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The Gearhead Thread

Post by Hovannes »

Model Ts are negative ground, therefore the negative battery terminal should bolt directly to the frame with a short length of braided cable. Both my negative and positive battery terminals are served by thick black cables that trail off to never-neverland somewhere in the T's nether regions.
I've got to figure this out. Nothing jives with the Model T wiring diagrams I have :angry-tappingfoot:
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Since the Fordor T is still hemmed in the garage, I swept up the mouse poop and spiders under it the best I could and climbed awkwardly on a creeper, and creeped while tracing the battery cables.
No luck in finding the ends beyond the gas tank under the front seat, so I decided to lift off the floorboards and trace from the topside, which required ripping out the fossilized indoor/outdoor carpeting. That took a surprising amount of time due to the condition of the carpeting.
By now the morning was far spent. I made a mental note that the floorboards were badly worn and could use some help if not replacement.
I’ll need to mull that issue over some, but first I needed to find where the negative terminal is grounded.
At last I found the cable, followed it a short way and found that it was grounded on one of the bolts attaching the transmission door!
So I figure there is no reason not to order a flat woven cable and attach it to the frame like Henry Ford originally wanted.
But how long a woven cable? I found three lengths listed in the Model T supplier’s websites.
Eyeballing it, it looks as if the 6" length should fit. I’ll measure the distance to the hole in the frame to be sure of it.

Then there is the battery spacer. I made two, one is 2" thick , the other is about 1" and the idea if I understand it, is to raise the battery up so I can use the original battery hold down clamps.
So there will be that to play with as well
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I've ordered new front floorboards so the next issue to overcome is if there is enough clearance for the Ford Faithful oiling system to clear the floorboards---the old floorboards won't, so either the old floorboards have settled or the body needs shimming or the oiler needs to be replumbed.
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Post by FredS »

That's interesting. I have questions.

- Is the aftermarket oiler top plate inside the vehicle or is it under the floorboard?

- Does the engine set on hard motor mounts? If it's that close a fit I'd think engine torque would make the oiler tube hit the floorboard if the mounts are flexible.

- I wonder if the Ford Faithful system came with an aftermarket floorboard or a 'bubble' that could be installed over a clearance hole cut in the floor?
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